In this week’s New York Magazine, Park Slope new mom Amy Sohn asks, "Will Fairway Kill the Park Slope Food Coop?"
Kudos to Sohn, who used to have a sex column in New York but post-bebe seems to be switching to other topics, for coming up with a new way of describing Park Slopers that doesn’t use the words crunchy, lefty, or Birkenstock-clad. Instead her lede goes: "The scruffy, Michael Pollan–reading culture of Park Slope is probably
best embodied by the Food Co-op, the 13,000-member DIY grocery store
founded in 1973."
Okay. So, we’re scruffy. And she coulda said Elizabeth Royte-reading culture…to be more specific. Still, later in the piece, jazz musician and former Coop member, Roy Nathanson refers to himself as an "old lefty."
Yeesh. You just can’t lose those cliches. Hippie era. Old lefty.
Nonetheless, her story was informative and on the mark. Are Food Coopers defecting to Fairway? Park Slopers want to know.
Sohn reports that the Food Coop dropped 300 members last month. Could Fairway be partly responsible for this?
Yes and no. The first-wave of Fairway defectors will be those who have a love/hate relationship with the Coop; those who are fed up with the workshifts; and those who have cars.
But they must have cars.
However, I don’t think people are leaving for Diet Coke and Twinkies as the article suggests. I do, however, agree that parking spaces will be a big pull for car people. The fact that Fairway has parking is very appealing and gives Brooklynites that fleeting feeling that they’re living in suburbia.
A couple I know, recent Coop defectors, are now happily shopping at Fairway. They did say that they’re spending a lot more money there. They told me that the prices are higher and you buy more because everything looks so good.
Spouses who have to work their spouse’s shifts, because of the rule that all adult members of the household must work, will also be early defectors. Sadly, this is mostly women who work for their husbands. Those who join without mentioning their husbands are called Coop Widows. Over six hours a month is a big commitment.
Also, those who can only shop during Coop rush hour will probably choose Fairway to avoid long checkout lines. Again, if they have cars.
That said, many Coop members, myself included, enjoy the sense of community, the wackiness, and the great food at the Coop. It’s a shopping environment without junk food where there are warning signs about genetically altered foods.
Shopping there makes me feel like I am being more conscious about sustainable agriculture and healthy eating. I am constantly learning about new products and new things to eat. I feel adventurous and willing to give new things a try. Like Vegan Hunan dumplings.
I also admire the way the Coop works; the system is quite an amazing thing. The fact that it works at all day in and day out is itself a miracle.
There’s lots to complain about. But Dag, Key Food and all the others have big, big problems, too. I guess I’m just really hooked on the Coop: the idea of it, the fact that it isn’t just Park Slopers but people from all over Brooklyn. As one member said the other day, "If people are willing to work here, it must be pretty good."
Finally, the PSFC has gotten too big; there are so many members that there aren’t enough for jobs for people to do. This could be addressed by reducing the number of work hours required. But it hasn’t been. About a year ago, when Whole Foods was said to be coming to the neighborhood, someone said that the Coop wasn’t dealing with the overabundance of members because they expected, yes expected, to lose members when Whole Foods and Fairway came in.
So maybe this is the shake-out that will result in shorter lines — a win-win for loyal members.