Bar for Civilized Beer Geeks

In today’s Dining Briefs in the Times, The Beer Table, on 15th Street and 7th Avenue got a veritible rave from reviewer Peter Meehan.

The list of 25 or so bottled beers, which changes daily, is the focus. It is a fabulously succinct, remarkably reliable document, and most beers on it are not just unusual but unusually delicious.

Instead of organizing the list by country or price or style, Mr. Philips has organized it from “most delicate” to “most rich.” It is a testament to his palate that the organization works, and that his descriptions of the beers are so reliable.

Leipziger Gose, a beer I could drink by the bathtub full, is, per the menu, “super refreshing, herbal, somewhat briny.” Schlenkerla Urbock, a smoky brew from Bamberg, Germany, is “sausage in a glass.”

The Philipses offer few, but worthy, companions to their beers: artisanal cheeses, malt-flavored ice cream and a spread of charcuterie — pork belly rilletes, chicken liver terrine and so on — that a friend makes a few times a week in Beer Table’s nook of a kitchen.

A friend called the charcuterie and beer pairing “the perfect antidote to Bar Boulud.” I’ll call the place a fantastic spot for Park Slopers looking for a civilized way to wind down and a new pilgrimage site for beer geeks citywide.

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