Thanks to verse responder Leon Freilich for this tip:

Park Slope’s Elizabeth Royte, author of the books Garbage Land and the new, Bottlemania,  gets more accolades today from New York Times book critic, Michiko
Kakutani.

Calling her new Bottlemania: How Water Went on Sale and Why We Bought It
"fascinating," Kakutani notes that Royte finds New York City’s tap
water less pure than generally thought–an unpleasant surprise.

Still
New York tap handily beats the bottled variety.  Ours meets federal
safety standards while the others need only satisfy state criteria,
which are diluted.