The New York Times’ interviewed Jean Nathan, an authority on Jewish food.
I always braise my brisket long and slow to tenderize it. Since
brisket comes from the grainier forequarters of the steer, slow cooking
is required to tenderize the meat, even more so these days with
pre-trimmed, young, or "select" meat. I start with a whole brisket and
leave the fat on – I cut it off after cooking. If you want a very
savory brisket try My Favorite Brisket in my "Jewish Cooking in
America." It includes red wine, tomato sauce, and, of course, lots of
onions. I never make a thick gravy with flour but reduce the juices
from the brisket after cooking and pour them over as a gravy. I also
make my brisket a day ahead, refrigerate it, trim off the fat and slice
it against the grain. Then I put the sliced pieces back in the pan with
the sauce and fruit, to be heated up at dinner. Here is a favorite:Fruited Brisket with Apricots and Apples
Adapted from "The New American Cooking," (Alfred Knopf)2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 chopped onions
4 cloves garlic
1 tablespoon dried ginger
1 five- six-pound brisket
Salt and pepper to taste
2 apples, chopped (about 2 cups)
1 cup dried apricots, halved
1 cup dried plums, pitted
½ cup dried cranberries
1 – 2 cups apple juice
1 – 2 cups canned beef or chicken broth1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
2. Brown the onion, the garlic, and the ginger in the remaining
oil until the onion is golden. Then scatter the onions in the roasting
pan.3. Season the brisket with salt and pepper and gently lay on
top of the onions. Add the chopped apples, chopped apricots, dried
cranberries, chopped pitted prunes and enough apple juice and beef or
chicken broth to almost cover the brisket. Cover the roasting pan with
a lid or aluminum foil and bake for 3 hours.4. Remove the brisket, cool, and refrigerate overnight.
5. Just before serving, reheat the oven to 350 degrees. While
the brisket is still cold, skim off any fat that has accumulated on
top, and slice off the excess fat. Slice the meat against the grain,
place in a baking dish with the reserved juices, cover and reheat for
about a half hour. Remove from the pan to a platter, surrounded by the
fruits and the sauce. Serve this with potato pancakes or noodles.
Yield: 8 – 10 servings.